June 6, 2016: Llaneilian to Bull Bay
Along the coast between Llaneilian and Amlwch Port.
Still somewhat tired from the exertions of the first day of our walk we reassembled for breakfast in our Bull Bay b&b at 8:00 on the morning of June 6, a sunny Monday. Our taxi driver had noted that he might not reach us at 9:00 on the dot but it was almost 9:20 before he arrived. He was now to transport our bags to accommodation in Cemaes, our goal today, but now we would also need to be returned to Llaneilian. Of course we retained our sticks – not to be confused with the driver’s crutches – and Naomi and Adrian each had a small knapsack. As we returned to yesterday’s terminus our driver explained that he was late because his former brother-in-law, someone he hadn’t seen in almost forty years, had knocked on his door this morning.
He drove us to a turning circle above the beach at Porth Eilian and by 9:35 we were ready to resume our coastal scramble. The morning was quite lovely and far cooler than yesterday. A series of inlets followed and many were deep and narrow, with wild flowers growing from the steep cliffs. Children had disappeared from the scene but there were still many strollers about, often accompanied by dogs. Again, however, there was more up and down than we had encountered on Anglesey’s other coasts and I would not say that progress was at all rapid.
Maritime memorials at Almwch Port.
We used a wooden footbridge to cross one stream and made our way from bay to bay and at Llam Carw we reached a kissing gate and some return to civilization, symbolized here by a large car park. The sun was now beaming down on us and I was hoping for some form of refreshment hereabouts. It was not long in coming our way for, with many signs of former industrial activity about, we were entering the precincts of Amlwch Port and after climbing away from the coast we dropped down to the Sail Loft Visitor Centre and Café. Here we had a nice rest and some cold drinks at noon.
Then we continued along the margins of the narrow harbor inlet, searching for a way forward from its slipway. The route passed through some less than edifying rural squalor before returning to its usual pattern of headland and canyon. I had begun the day with several moments of light-headedness but such episodes had receded when a new form of challenge approached us from behind.
The skies had been clouding over and we could now hear the not-so-distant rumble of thunder approaching from the east. We tried to ignore this but, after lightning had added its note to the proceedings, Adrian turned around from his forward position and came back to suggest that perhaps we should now put on our rain gear. The others were soon fully encased – though I chose to use my rain jacket only at this point. Adrian also felt that prudence suggested as quick a return to civilization as possible and, following a woman who had turned left on a signposted route, we abandoned the coast path itself and headed steeply uphill in the direction of the main highway – a light rain now descending.
The coast path takes a bit longer to rejoin the main road but well before this point we were marching along, with pavement provided on both sides of the highway. Our objective was the Trecastell Hotel in Bull Bay, where we had planned to have lunch anyway, and a mile of steady walking brought us ever closer. I was so strongly reminded of my solitary march to Aberffraw two years ago; if anything the rain was even less intense today.
The Trecastell at Bull Bay. Here we took refuge from one of the worst storms witnessed in all our footpath days.
When we arrived at the hotel at 2:00 or so we removed our wet gear and took a seat at a table in the glassed-in-atrium facing the highway and the sea. I had a pint and an over-cooked cheeseburger. While we were thus safely ensconced we were able to observe a dramatic change in the weather; the light rain stopped and it was succeeded by a violent storm that thundered down on the glass roof above us and swept in torrents across the highway. How glad we were to be inside at this moment – other sodden walkers were not so lucky.
Once again we had to do some thinking about our position. By the time we could safely leave it was close to 3:00 and we had walked only five miles, with six still to go. Remembering our late arrival of yesterday we soon concluded that it was not going to be possible to reach Cemaes on foot today and that we would walk the remaining portion of today’s quest tomorrow. The decision meant that we would not be able to complete all the sections of our itinerary on this visit but no one seemed particularly disappointed. We were soon riding the remaining distance in a taxicab. By the time we reached Cemaes, shortly after 4:00, the sun was shining again.
I take it as a sign of our fatigue that no one seemed interested in exploring the village. Instead we had a nice rest in our rooms at the Woburn Hill Hotel (at the top of the high street) and met for drinks at 6:30 in the hotel’s lounge. I phoned BWJ’s Taxis with news of a new destination for us tomorrow and we dined in the hotel dining room. I had the scampi and chips but I could only manage about half.
My room on the top floor had a skylight that I soon covered with its shade and a little side widow, which I opened as wide as possible – for it was quite hot up here. I read from the articles I had plucked from The New Yorker and The New York Review of Books and worked on some crossword puzzles. It took a long time for the skies to blacken but at 9:45 or so I was out.
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