August 21, 2015: Morebattle to Kirk Yetholm
As we begin our climb the valley of Kale Water appears on the right.
We had a rather gray morning today– but still no sign of any return of the moisture we had encountered on the first day of our walk. After our modest breakfast needs had been met Gavan went up the street to the village shop in order to supplement the sandwich order already filled by the kitchen of the Templehall Inn. We were off at 9:00 and, after yesterday’s exertions, we expected a bit of a breather; one ascent (though a giant one) rather than four, and only six and half miles needed to reach our next accommodation.
We left town by a road that could have been used to get us all the way to this destination, soon forsaking it for the Howman road; this pulled us over a low ridge and into the Kale Water valley. Soon we were walking parallel to this stream, eventually crossing to the other side on a footbridge. Now it was time to head uphill, often quite steeply and, of course, with every step the views became more interesting and extensive. Cattle were grazing in some of the nearby spots and the heather was beginning to bloom again at our feet.
I struggle up Wideopen Hill.
We climbed around the summit of Grubbit Law and used a ladder stile to begin a final assault on the day’s high point, Wideopen Hill. Now amid wind and cloud we had a panorama in all directions from a spot that, at 368 meters, is the highest point on St Cuthbert’s Way and also its half-way point. Ahead was the Bowmont Valley but we made slow work of our descent, savoring the views and keeping an eye out for fences and gates as the route covered often broken ground. As we neared the bottom Gavan found a broken wall for us to sit on and to have our lunch.
The continuation of the route brought us out to Old Crookedshaws Lane, where we headed southwest, surprisingly, in order to emerge onto the tarmac ribbon that threaded the valley floor. Once again we would be using a good deal of road walking and today there were quite a few cars about – requiring us to step onto the verge as they approached. Nor, as we headed east, could we see much of our ultimate destination, the twin hamlets of Town and Kirk Yetholm. We passed through another settlement, Primsidemill, and climbed up to the B6401, where we turned right.
St Cuthbert’s Way actually abandons this highway in favor of a riverside ramble but I suppose I surprised Gavan by suggesting that we should keep to the road instead – since I didn’t want to overshoot an amenity I had been dreaming of for the last hour or so – the Plough Inn in Town Yetholm. (And we would have missed a front yard with more gnomes to the square inch than anything Tolkien could have imagined.) We reached our oasis at 1:20 and, though I rarely drink beer at home, I reveled at last in the cold liquid as it forced its way down my throat.
The Broussines were here too and Ivan took a picture of the two of us in front of this hostelry. Then we returned to Bowmont Water and followed a route across the meadow in order to arrive in Kirk Yetholm and reach our accommodation for the night, the Border Hotel. It was 3:00.
The Border Hotel, Kirk Yetholm. Compare this picture with one taken on Day 16 of my account of the Pennine Way (elsewhere on this website), one taken thirty-six years earlier.
I must say that to arrive at this place brought on a real bout of nostalgia – for I had last made a visit to the bar of this inn (no longer painted white) thirty-six years earlier when I completed the northern section of the Pennine Way. I explained this fact to the young lady who pointed us in the direction of our first floor room; she seemed uncomprehending but then thirty-six years ago was well before she was even alive.
We had a rest and at 6:30 a pre-dinner drink downstairs as we studied the dinner menu. Gavan had his eye on some local fudge but they had sold all of this at the bar before we made our inquiries. I had quite a chat with the barman and I asked if the hotel still provided Pennine Way walkers with a free half pint if they got this far in one go. He said they did. When I walked up here in 1979 the drinks were still on Alf Wainwright, whose Pennine Way Companion served as the bible of the route for many years. Not surprisingly a photo of Lakeland’s favorite curmudgeon was in a prominent position behind the bar.
When we were shown to our table in a large and crowded dining room we began our meal with a Scottish specialty, cullen skink, a creamy potato and haddock soup that was quite delicious. I took a picture with my iPhone so that I could challenge my foodie friend Makiko to identify the ingredients. Then I had some lovely lamb.
Before retiring we strolled out to the green, where a monument to the local gypsy population stood, and I tried to figure out where I had once stood waiting for my bus home all those years ago. It was a lovely evening but it was time to head for our beds. I knew that we would have our longest day tomorrow but I told Gavan that I was actually looking forward to the challenge.
To continue with the next stage of our walk you need: