The Furness Way – Day 7

August 20, 1994: Boot to Ravenglass

The Esk Valley from Muncaster Fell

The Esk Valley from Muncaster Fell

The morning was rather grey on Saturday, August 20, our last day on the Furness Way. We were alone in the breakfast room at 7:45 – an early hour necessitated by our appointment with a 2:40 train some ten miles away. We were able to leave Dale View at 8:20 and retrace our steps down to Brook House, where Gavan paused to take a photo of a cement boot containing geraniums. Then, continuing the route that Harold and I had used in 1987, we walked down to St. Catherine’s church on the banks of the Esk. A man was walking a huge Newfoundland that came bumbling up to us just as we were viewing a considerable obstacle. The famous steppingstones, which we had used with no problem on our Roman Way walk, were mostly submerged this morning! I suggested we continue on the flood route that Hannon had outlined in his guidebook but Gavan rejected this alternative in favor of a bridge crossing upstream, one that had been recommended by the owner of the giant dog – though requiring us to walk upstream for several minutes in a direction opposite to the one we needed to use. I did not appreciate Gavan telling me to pick up the pace – as if I would not know how many hours were needed to reach our destination at my pace.

Once safely on the other side we began a search for a route up to the Roman Way’s track and this was not too hard to find. For the next several miles we walked in my old footsteps (well, we did better than this – since we took all the right turns this time). I was very surprised to see what a difference the weather made in my perception of this countryside. Harold and I had marched in radiant sunshine on a warm day and I found this forested passage to be particularly delightful. Today it was all grey and overcast and the woods seemed to have lost their charm.

After several miles on tracks we passed onto some rocks and continued forward for a while on a narrow path lined with blackberries – still not ripe enough for eating. Another track took us out to the road over the Esk at Ford Bridge. We paused for a little rest on the bridge abutment and had our first close views of Muncaster Fell – which we would climb in a few minutes time. Then we took to the road to pass the pub and continue into a corner of Eskdale Green. I well remembered floundering around in the fields beyond this hamlet and so I was particularly keen to follow the guidebook maps closely on this section. There were a few ambiguities nevertheless, but after leaving tracks behind for paths around a clump of trees (that is, keeping farther to the north than last time) we emerged in an open field opposite the Fell and followed paths out to a lane.

Harold and I had turned left here to remain closer to the river but I had always regretted not making contact with Muncaster Fell itself – and the Furness Way now provided the opportunity. After a little bit of climbing on a path through the underbrush there was a wonderful view back up the valley. More climbing as we reached higher elevations on a good westward path provided improving views over the valley to the south and eventually vistas of the meandering river as it headed for the sea. The sun was now in evidence at last and it illuminated the wonderful heather, making this high level route quite exhilarating. We paused several times for picture taking and to chat with other walkers who were much more common on the ground this day than in any other section of the route, barring Walna Scar Road. (We never encountered any other genuine Furness Way walkers, however).

There were a number of marshy places to be waded through as we continued in a westerly direction. Once we descended briefly to reach the saddle between two halves of the fell and as we neared the end point, at Hooker’s Crag, there was a steep but short pull up to the summit cairn.

Gavan had decided that he would use the rock pile as another spot from which his timed camera could take a picture of the both of us.  “Now let’s act like hookers,” he suggested – thinking that such a pose would help memorialize our visit to this summit. “I don’t know how to act like a hooker,” I replied. “You know, “ Gavan said, “make a suggestive come-on pose with your arm.” “I don’t think I want to do that,” I said. “You’re no fun!” he snapped with some bitterness. “Walk with someone else,” I concluded. Sulking, he strode down the path, which was now at last making its descent toward sea level. He never understood why a 56 year-old department chairman at the American School in London might have neither the artistry nor the desire to pose as a hooker.

Approaching Ravenglass

Approaching Ravenglass

For a while I thought he might never stop, which was all right with me. I had the OS map and I was sure I could find my way to Ravenglass, but eventually he slowed down at a gate  (Gates skunked Stiles again this day 23-3 and took the overall series title 143-74). He made no mention of the incident, nor did I, and we marched close to one another again, with views of Sellafield spoiling the vantage points on our right.

Muncaster Castle

Muncaster Castle

Far off in the distance Gavan could see some headlands across the sea. Scotland? The Isle of Man? In his heart he wanted to be looking at Ireland ­– for which he has a great patriotic nostalgia. When we reached the A545 we turned our back on Ravenglass to enter the grounds of Muncaster Castle up the road – the same entry which Harold and I had made in 1987 – when I lost my walking stick in the cafeteria. We marched through the grassy grounds of the castle and turned uphill. Once again we were following the Roman Way route and once again I remembered getting off track in the huge field of Muncaster Park. I warned Gavan to keep further south this time and we found the path to Newtown Farm without much difficulty. I found the area around Walls, plantation and Castle, to be changed some. Everything was paved now and I was sure that a lot of trees had been cut down. Shortly before reaching Ravenglass we turned left on a path under the railway line and emerged on a rather unattractive stretch of beachfront. We wound around to the north and climbed up to a bench at the end, where we had a nice rest. It was 1:00 and we had completed the 75 miles of the Furness Way.

After a while I suggested we walk over to the Ratty Arms, a local pub, and here we sat at a table in the sun, eating cod and chips and drinking our lager. There was a wonderful display of summer flowers against the wall, including a number of unusual pansies. Gavan talked about party-giving in Cambridge. After a brief reconnoiter I returned to lead us over to the railway platform and at 2:45 we were aboard the slow train for Lancaster, a tedious journey I had made several times before. I expected an hour and a half wait here but Gavan spotted another connection on a notice board. Another change in Preston would get us into London at 8:30 rather than 9:30. (Train information hadn’t advised me of this connection when I had called.) While we waited for the desired train a loony came through the station inquiring about missing (but perhaps imaginary) relatives. To our relief the Euston train was originating in Preston and there were plenty of seats throughout the journey. I read New Yorker articles again and Gavan worked at my crossword puzzle book. We ate snacks from the buffet car and rested our tired bodies as darkness overtook us just as we reached London. I wasted no time with tubes and took us downstairs for a quick cab ride home. And good it was to be there too.

Footpath Index:

England: A Chilterns Hundred | The Chiltern Way | The Cleveland Way | The Coast-to-Coast Path | The Coleridge Way | The Cotswold Way | The Cumberland Way | The Cumbria Way | The Dales Way | The Furness Way | The Green London Way | The Greensand Way | The Isle of Wight Coast Path | The London Countryway | The London Outer Orbital Path | The Norfolk Coast Path | The North Downs Way | The Northumberland Coast Path | The Peddars Way | The Pennine Way | The Ridgeway Path | The Roman Way | The Saxon Shore Way | The South Downs Way | The South West Coast Path | The Thames Path | The Two Moors Way | The Vanguard Way | The Wealdway | The Westmorland Way | The White Peak Way | The Yorkshire Wolds Way